I was initially struck by how much Honolulu looked like various cities with which I interacted during my childhood. The houses have the same relatively contemporary architecture. Low walls separate houses, which sit close to each other and touch the sidewalks with their external walls, their inner yards protected from wall-climbing miscreants by security perimeters made of mortar and broken beer bottles. I suppose that to some this walled-ness would seem forbidding or unfriendly. To me, it just reminded me of neighborhoods in Lima, Bogotá, Quito, Santiago (and, from the "forward memory" of one year later, Mexico city, Seoul and São Paulo). It might be interestinq to see if it's a function of tropicality, more recent development, Asian influence, or what.

I suppose it's a testament to how much urban planninq in the US seems to have had two phases: one, in the 1800s, when it happened, and then the period after that, when it didn't. It's as if the US skipped the time period when other cities of the world were re-inventing/buildinq themselves in the 50s and 60s. Maybe that's why sprawl seems to be such an exclusively 'Merican phenomenon.

Between the houses, the streets which look like streets in S. America, the long rows of walls, and the tropical plants, I couldn't stop myself from saying, over and over, "It looks just like Bogotá/Medellín/Cartagena/Quito/Lima/San José/Panama City...".

Soon enough, this became a joke to Erica, Dylan, and Jason.

Labels:

ENDOFSTRING; $node['date']=strtotime('1/02/2000 12:28:00 PM'); $node['number']='9091083954277683595'; $node['permalink']='http://www.saddlesores.org/new/2000/01/hawaii-its-just-like-home.html'; echo "INSERT INTO node (nid, vid, type, title, uid, created, changed) VALUES(".$nid.",".$nid.", 'story', '".addslashes($node['title'])."', 1, ".$node['date'].", ".$node['date'].");\n\n"; echo "INSERT INTO node_revisions (nid, vid, uid, title, body, format) VALUES(".$nid.", ".$nid.", 1, '".addslashes($node['title'])."', '".addslashes($node['body'])."', 3);\n\n"; echo "INSERT INTO term_node (nid, tid) VALUES(".$nid.", 6);\n\n"; $iid = '8857228008356636526'; $nid++; $node=array(); $node['title']=<<Writing this one year later, and after having travel journals involving various culinary experiences take over this site (originally intended to expose the things that are official Pains In My Butt&tm;), it's almost ironic (and to think Alanis had such a hard time) that this food section on Hawaii is so late in cominq.

First things first: I LOVE SEAFOOD! I was a happy soul in the land of poke. Ahi poke, tako poke, and my favorite, Sam Choi's flash fried poke--delightful cubist morsels of Wholesome Fishy Goodness imbued with a shoyu-based Flav-R-Maker, sprinkled with nori-no-furikake and served lovingly alongside the Far East's gift to my nutrition, a bowl of steaming, glutinous arroz.

We also had teriyaki burgers, foodservice grade G ground beef patties dipped in a vat of teriyaki sauce and then fried in oil that's as old as Pele herself (this is what makes it yummy), and Ono Ono shakes, which blend the creamy frothyness of vanilla softserve with the gooeyness of nutty butter.

However, other Hawaiian specialties proved much rougher eating. The well-known treat of Plate Lunch is like Thrombosis on a plate: two-scoop rice, one scoop mac-n-mayo (the salad), and deep-fried, breaded cutlet. There are chains that specialize in the stuff--the origin of the muu-muu?

And then there was People's Cafe--as close to Authentica as we would get without first getting many more vowels in our names. My order consisted of a bowl of poi (taro paste-I actually like the stuff), chicken luau (a bowl of a soupy substance that looked like creamed spinach and tasted like Coco López), pipikaula (a piece of fried pork) and the winner, lau lau. Dylan had said, when asked, that it was pork wrapped in ti leaves and then steamed. He, gracious one, neglected to mention when he compared it to a Tamal that in the Hawaiian version of the wrap-your-food-in-leaves theme, one eats the wrapping.

Eating ti leaves is about as tasty as chewing tea leaves.

I did thank Dylan for the experience, but did tell him it's not for the weak of stomach. "It's like Klingon food, but I love it. Feel the wholesome goodness," is Dylan's testament to it.

One year later, and after two servings of Szichuanese hot pot to my credit, I still think that People's Cafe ranks up there in the list of Things I'm Glad I Did and Am Sure I won't do again, along with fraternity pledging and Times Square on New Year's Eve.

Labels:

ENDOFSTRING; $node['date']=strtotime('1/02/2000 12:26:00 PM'); $node['number']='8857228008356636526'; $node['permalink']='http://www.saddlesores.org/new/2000/01/hawaii-of-food-and-wine.html'; echo "INSERT INTO node (nid, vid, type, title, uid, created, changed) VALUES(".$nid.",".$nid.", 'story', '".addslashes($node['title'])."', 1, ".$node['date'].", ".$node['date'].");\n\n"; echo "INSERT INTO node_revisions (nid, vid, uid, title, body, format) VALUES(".$nid.", ".$nid.", 1, '".addslashes($node['title'])."', '".addslashes($node['body'])."', 3);\n\n"; echo "INSERT INTO term_node (nid, tid) VALUES(".$nid.", 6);\n\n"; $iid = '413856711884794838'; $nid++; $node=array(); $node['title']=<<I think that the most unusual fact about the exhibit at the Bishop Museum is that Hawaii has such a history of cultural and ethnic intermingling that one would suppose that there'd be an intense public scrutiny of rhetoric about immigration, foreign origin and new arrivals to the Islands. However, and the more I think of it, it's more a function of my perception, having been living in the very charged atmosphere of ethnicity and racial relations in the continental United States.

I say this because, unlike in the mainland, where the notion of ethnic inclusion will fluctuate between the Melting Pot and the Salad Bowl concepts, Hawaii seems to have something completely different. I'm still looking for a name for it, although I think that, in deference to native Hawaiians I'll call it the Poi Gourd.

Why do I say this? Just as an outside observer, it became very apparent that as much as political rhetoric in the islands can be very divisive, what with the Japanese, native Hawaiian, Korean, Chinese (mainland, Taiwanese and Cantonese) and Anglo communities duking it out for power and influence over everything from the state legislature to the Bishop Estate (and in so doing taking very explicit steps to exclude people from certain groups from the process), everyday life in Hawaii seems to incorporate fundamental parts of multiple cultures without as much as a second thought to it.

Food, I think, is usually a good indicator of how far a culture's traditions have permeated another's. I mean, aside from looking at the streets in LA to know that there's a very significant Mexican population in California, all one has to do is notice the popularity of the tortilla chip to realize that Mexican people are beginning to significant cultural strength in the US. Likewise, in Hawaii, one could taste the Japanese influence in everyday food, what with very rare tuna steaks, the naming of soy sauce as shoyu in everyday functioning, or the use of dried seaweed furikake in one of Hawaii's pieces of foody goodness, Poke. I'll talk about food at more length elsewhere.

Traditional Hawaiian music, likewise, demonstrates how much of this mixing of cultures has become a uniquely Hawaiian way of living. I was amazed at how much Hawaiian popular music sounds like Latin American boleros (minus the maracas). Hear it for yourself. No doubt the Portuguese, French and Spanish presence in the islands has much to do with the adoption of the Ukulele, which is very much like the Cuban cuatro, the Colombian tiple, the Andean charango, the Spanish viguela--a smaller variation of the guitar with a particularly acute sound.

Street and road names follow no particular ethnic origin, and as such one can find street names in Hawaiian and English, or of Chinese, Japanese and Iberian origin.

I can't, of course, argue that I understand modern-day Hawaiian culture merely by virtue of having been there three weeks and haven eaten food there and seen the occasional news broadcast. I even think I've done a very poor job of explaining any of what I have, by and large, concluded about the place. bell hooks would have a field day with me if I argued anything even close to that. But I can say that the vibe surrounding ethnic and cultural relations was completely different to what I have become accustomed to in my last 6 years living in the US. Dylan, Jason and Erica will laugh when they read this, but even the air of ethnic and cultural relations in Hawaii reminds me of home.

Labels:

ENDOFSTRING; $node['date']=strtotime('12/28/1999 12:24:00 PM'); $node['number']='413856711884794838'; $node['permalink']='http://www.saddlesores.org/new/1999/12/hawaii-foreigner-nation.html'; echo "INSERT INTO node (nid, vid, type, title, uid, created, changed) VALUES(".$nid.",".$nid.", 'story', '".addslashes($node['title'])."', 1, ".$node['date'].", ".$node['date'].");\n\n"; echo "INSERT INTO node_revisions (nid, vid, uid, title, body, format) VALUES(".$nid.", ".$nid.", 1, '".addslashes($node['title'])."', '".addslashes($node['body'])."', 3);\n\n"; echo "INSERT INTO term_node (nid, tid) VALUES(".$nid.", 6);\n\n"; $iid = '4670827451361354362'; $nid++; $node=array(); $node['title']=<<I've never found a shortage of people willing to remind me about the evils of ethnocentrism and the need to be very, very careful when discussing issues of ethnicity and race and culture, lest one possibly offend someone. Our visit to the Bishop museum in Honolulu showed me that 1) either those people never made it to Hawaii to spread their gospel or 2) they made it over and pissed someone off big time.

The Bishop Museum houses an impressive collection of artifacts describing the cultural and political history of the Hawaiian archipelago. It also plays host to a museum of Polynesian culture, and, as its third personality, also plays the role of general-purpose children's exploratorium.

The Bishop Museum
The Hawaiiana and Polynesiana (Polyanna?) collections were informative in the best tourist-museum style. However, it was the children's exploratorium section that held the most delightful of their exhibits:

Illegal Aliens in Your Suitcase!

Did you know that thousands of illegal aliens travel across the Pacific in assorted carry-on weekenders and garment bags? How many do you think really belong in Hawaii?

It's true! Thousands upon thousands of wetback lizards and gabacho kudzu spores are flooding the Hawaiian islands, bringing along the political instability, crime, and assorted plagues to which they play host in their own, godless lands! Invading Bananas from Central America, Black Market Rice from Southeast Asia, and Illiterate Snakes from the Phillippines!
These are Dangerous Aliens! They're coming along, stealing jobs from hard-working Hawaiian farmers and depressing the standard of living throughout the land! We must contain them!

They lengthen the welfare lines! They are immoral and destructive! They show no respect for time-honored traditions Hawaiian families have cultivated for centuries! There is even evidence to suggest that their presence also leads to despicable social plights like homosexual tour groups and Starbucks!

They hold no respect for the Things That Make These Islands Great! They are truly destroying The Way We Live! They don't bother to learn the language or adopt local customs! Under the guise of decorative flowers, aromatic ornamental plants and other salad ingredients, they blend and toss cultural norms together with complete disregard and insensitivity for Our Traditions! Invading Illegal Aliens represent a source of cultural confusion and unprecedented intermingling!

Do your part to hald this flood of Illegal Aliens: fill out the Agricultural Declarations every time you fly into the islands; don't bring in any of the heathenous, impure foods available in the mainland; and, most importantly, report any suspicious vegetable or plant activity to your Neighborhood Coordinating Committee for Biological Integrity!

Only YOU can put a halt to this invasion!

Labels:

ENDOFSTRING; $node['date']=strtotime('12/26/1999 12:23:00 PM'); $node['number']='4670827451361354362'; $node['permalink']='http://www.saddlesores.org/new/1999/12/hawaii-goofy-mixed-up-people.html'; echo "INSERT INTO node (nid, vid, type, title, uid, created, changed) VALUES(".$nid.",".$nid.", 'story', '".addslashes($node['title'])."', 1, ".$node['date'].", ".$node['date'].");\n\n"; echo "INSERT INTO node_revisions (nid, vid, uid, title, body, format) VALUES(".$nid.", ".$nid.", 1, '".addslashes($node['title'])."', '".addslashes($node['body'])."', 3);\n\n"; echo "INSERT INTO term_node (nid, tid) VALUES(".$nid.", 6);\n\n"; $iid = '1635932971600926886'; $nid++; $node=array(); $node['title']=<<After a 13-hour day of traveling, I made it to Honolulu.

I left home at 4AM, having been given a ride to the airport by the ever-generous Scott, who volunteered to wake up early and drive me to Baltimore Washington International Airport, which is so far away from DC it might as well be an international destination. Travel was uneventful-- so much so that it was eerie. Flights left on time, landed early, and gave me just enough time to walk to the next gate and take my seat on the subsequent plane.

I did get to see my share of airports. I think that hanging out with my brother, who plans airports for a living, has made me look at them with a new, and somewhat unusual, appreciation. From the tarmac, Denver International Airport looked just like it did in all the still shots I had seen on Colorado news, taken back when they were building the thing and I still lived in Peru (go figure why we got Colorado broadcast news on Lima cable tv). The tilted turrets of tented space-age polymer do evoke the image of snow-capped peaks and roadside drifts of the cold, white stuff. LA International airport was as congested as any of the city's highways during rush hour. The approach into the airport reminded me of flying over the rocky piles of soil and dirt that make up Lima's mountains. The thick cloud of brown crud that lingered over the whole city (I hear Angelinos call it smog)

Grime and wing in dry repose Kodacolor 200 1999
ruled out LA as a potential place to live if I ever choose to move across the country. Honolulu's airport is stubbornly tropical, with a driveway that extends all the way to the gates and lots of open corridors--reminds me of where my dad teaches in Costa Rica.

Dylan, my college friend, fraternity brother and personal purveyor of all-purpose insensitivity, was waiting for me outside the gate. Faithful to his disregard for touristy things, he did not have a lei for me. I appreciated the gesture, as once I got a look at the Dalton family flying in from Carson City I realized that it could quickly escalate into a demonstration of distasteful floral carnage.

Making our way through amnesty bins for all forms of mainland-originated produce, the "Mahalo for your attention"s, and the overloaded baggage conveyors surrounded by assorted families, we eventually made it to the car. Dylan and I cought up on details and general pleasantries and such as Dylan's dad drove the car down H3, Hawaii's newest Interstate Highway.

Labels:

ENDOFSTRING; $node['date']=strtotime('12/21/1999 10:51:00 PM'); $node['number']='1635932971600926886'; $node['permalink']='http://www.saddlesores.org/new/1999/12/hawaii-semo-arrivati-or-how-to-avoid.html'; echo "INSERT INTO node (nid, vid, type, title, uid, created, changed) VALUES(".$nid.",".$nid.", 'story', '".addslashes($node['title'])."', 1, ".$node['date'].", ".$node['date'].");\n\n"; echo "INSERT INTO node_revisions (nid, vid, uid, title, body, format) VALUES(".$nid.", ".$nid.", 1, '".addslashes($node['title'])."', '".addslashes($node['body'])."', 3);\n\n"; echo "INSERT INTO term_node (nid, tid) VALUES(".$nid.", 6);\n\n"; $iid = '4637510412053786133'; $nid++; $node=array(); $node['title']=<<As far as Interstates go, H3 is the most memorable I've seen so far. It follows its way up a lush, verdant valley until it reaches the eastern range of Oahu, point at which it juts into a tunnel with an entryway worthy of a 1960s science fiction movie. The other side of the interstate hangs onto the side of the range that separates the windward side of the island from the rest of Oahu and gives it a completely different climate. It ends in and area of the island called Kailua. Dylan describes it as a commuter suburb, but it is unlike any suburb I've ever seen. It looks very much like the small towns that dot the countryside in Costa Rica and Colombia. In fact, all that I saw of the state reminds me a lot of the places in which I grew up. More on that later.

Southish of Kailua lies Waimanalo, inspiration for a semi-famous Hawaiian melody, Waimanalo Blues. The town lies along an expansive stretch of a white sandy beach, lapped, sometimes angrily, by the cold Pacific ocean. Local ordinances, which require that people be half-Hawaiian in order to own property in

Waimanalo
Waimanalo, seem to have prevented the building of the hotels and resorts that the authors of Waimanalo Blues feared would destroy its unique charm. Amongst other sources of fame, it also boasts of the McDonald's where Clinton stopped twice on two different Hawaii tours. Waimanalo is, without a question, my favorite part of Oahu.

Dylan grew up, and his parents live, in the southeasternmost corner of the island, in a section called Hawaii Kai. They own a very cozy, chalet-style house on the side of the southermost hill of Kalama Valley, with a view of the ocean where it meets Sandy Beach, a wave-intensive piece of waterfront frequented mostly by locals and daredevil tourists. On clear days, we could see Moloka'i and Maui from the Williams' second-story balcony.

Labels:

ENDOFSTRING; $node['date']=strtotime('12/21/1999 12:21:00 PM'); $node['number']='4637510412053786133'; $node['permalink']='http://www.saddlesores.org/new/1999/12/hawaii-lei-of-land.html'; echo "INSERT INTO node (nid, vid, type, title, uid, created, changed) VALUES(".$nid.",".$nid.", 'story', '".addslashes($node['title'])."', 1, ".$node['date'].", ".$node['date'].");\n\n"; echo "INSERT INTO node_revisions (nid, vid, uid, title, body, format) VALUES(".$nid.", ".$nid.", 1, '".addslashes($node['title'])."', '".addslashes($node['body'])."', 3);\n\n"; echo "INSERT INTO term_node (nid, tid) VALUES(".$nid.", 6);\n\n"; ?>